The Smart Man’s Guide to Tuxedo Styles: How to Pick Them and How to Wear Them

Did you know that there are different tuxedo styles? If you’re an Average Joe, chances are you thought the classic “penguin suit” was it and that it was something only worn in the odd Bond movie. A modern tuxedo can make a valuable addition to anyone’s wardrobe. That’s why we rounded up the experts at Oliver Wicks to help you demystify the world of men’s formal attire. When you look good, you feel even better – and that’s the true secret of rocking any formal occasion! So let’s get started.

What Are Typical Places that a Tuxedo Is Worn?

Before we dive in-depth into the suit itself, let’s take a look at the venues it fits in. While there are modern tuxedo styles that a trained eye can differentiate, most men know the classic black-and-white tuxedo at a glance, even if they can’t explain how they know it’s a tux.

How is a tuxedo different from a suit, however? We’ve looked at solo jackets, business casual dress codes, and various types of suits every man should know in other articles. To recap, however, the thing most men think of as a “suit” is the classic, single-breasted, two-piece suit consisting of a button-up jacket and matched pants worn with a shirt, tie, and other accessories. It’s classically made of wool or a similar matte fabric-like linen or mohair. Depending on style, formality, and venue, you might style it casually to impress a daytime coffee date or wear it powerfully to own the boardroom. 

The tuxedo is a different beast and would be wildly out of place in a boardroom. Instead, it’s an answer to the formal nature of the black-tie dress code for men. We’ll look at this in a little more depth, but if a woman is in a long gown (or at the very least a strictly formal cocktail dress), a man can, and should, wear a tuxedo. It is, in many ways, a “party suit” and wouldn’t be worn for business. With this in mind, it often uses dramatic “evening” fabrics like satin to create a more luxurious appeal than ordinary suits.

What Makes a Tuxedo a Tuxedo?

While there are different types of tuxedo fabric used in modern tuxedos, this presence of satin and evening fabrics is one of the key differences between a suit and a tuxedo. Traditionally, you will see satin facing on buttons, lapels, pockets, and even a satin stripe on the tuxedo pants. Tuxedo pants are always slim fit, neatly tapered, and traditionally have that braid on the outside of the legs. Some modern tuxedo styles have removed the satin or reduced its use to give the tux more versatility or appeal to men who aren’t used to such shiny and glamorous fabrics. However, this notion of “evening styling” is one to keep in mind. 

Looking beyond that, the difference between a tuxedo and a suit becomes harder to differentiate. Many modern suits and tuxedos blur the lines! Where a tuxedo was once a must for events like weddings and prom night, we now see fancy stylish suits that are just as acceptable. On the flip side, some of the traditional suit accessories – high-stance vests, long ties, and so on – have been embraced at some events where a tuxedo is perfectly appropriate.

That’s because many of the tuxedo accessories that help shape a tuxedo look are associated with the black-tie dress code, not the tuxedo itself. This includes cummerbunds, low-stance vests, and bow ties. Once you take a fancy, high-end suit and add these, those lines get very blurry.

So, we will add that a modern tuxedo is about a vibe. It’s about high-end, formal events with excellent manners and classy looks. It’s about being sophisticated and robust, not outright sexy. It is an art form, not a uniform. It’s also about not looking out of place with a female partner in an evening gown. 

Why do we need this vibe, though? Well, even if you typically kick around in shorts and a ragged tee, men’s suits are ubiquitous. You can wear one almost anywhere without raising eyebrows or looking out of place – even to the grocery store if you want! You can get married in a suit, and your guests can wear a suit to attend. What happens when you want to go a step above and beyond day-to-day wear, though? What happens when it’s an important event? What happens when you need to look more formal (and more respectful) than the guys in a suit in the audience?

You pull out a tuxedo, that’s what!

What Is Black-Tie?

Strictly speaking, a black-tie is a complete formal dress code appropriate to high-end events that start after 6 p.m. Most of us will see it applied to weddings. For female attendees, it’s the point where you transition from an elegant but still slightly casual cocktail dress to a full-length gown. They also typically ditch slinky cuts and high splits for more comfortable designs to sit in through a formal dinner and long reception, and heel height commonly comes down. We move from smart suits that could still go “out on the town” to clear evening wear like the tuxedo or dinner jacket for men. 

The Tuxedo vs. the Dinner Jacket

The tuxedo rubs shoulders in black-tie codes with the dinner jacket. So, let’s dive deeper into the differences.

Your tuxedo is the whole ensemble – matching jacket and trousers. A dinner jacket is fractionally less formal, as it doesn’t have matching pants. In many ways, it’s the solo jacket vs. suit debate of business casual, just at a far more elevated level! Dinner jackets are also very high-end, typically have satin trim again, and can have a super-formal one-button setup or a more modern, relaxed two-button setup. They’re generally black or white for black-tie, although a bold red or another color might be acceptable at some more modern events. A tuxedo is always proper at a black-tie, which will also transition to a white tie. Dinner jackets are strictly black-tie only, although a great way to show personalization while remaining appropriately formal. 

Both tuxedos and dinner jackets can be single-breasted or double-breasted, as in our example above. They have no vents and typically feature silk-peaked lapels or shawl collars, which we’ll break down in a bit, with covered buttons. They’re styled with a similar trouser design (although the tuxedo pants are part of a matched set and dinner jackets stand-alone) and worn with matching accessories. 

Tropical Black-Tie

Let’s quickly talk about that white dinner jacket. This is also sometimes called “tropical black-tie.” That’s because it’s a beautiful hot climate black-tie alternative to a full tuxedo, but the more traditional Brits never really got sold on the look. It’s typically worn with the same smartly tailored, tapered, and decorated black pants and bow tie as a tuxedo or black dinner jacket and is considered an acceptable black-tie almost anywhere.

To style “tropical black-tie” correctly, you need a turn-down collar shirt, and it should be white! Add black accessories and pants. Usually, the jacket has self-shawl lapels and self-flap pockets. The result is a tuxedo free of satin, with the same understated elegance.

What Is White Tie?

Most of us think of the black-tie as the most formal of formal stylings, and that’s not the case! The top tier in evening dress codes is white tie. For men, that name is very literal – you’re supposed to wear a white bow tie with your formal tuxedo rather than the black of “black-tie.” 

Many of us will never actually enter a white-tie situation. It’s typically the sort of event at which you’ll rub shoulders with presidents and royalty, but you never know! So gents, note that aside from the white bow tie, any vest you wear should be white too, and you typically need a tuxedo with full tails. A dinner jacket is not going to cut it in full white tie either. 

The white tie has a slew of rules that we won’t go into here because they get super complicated. It’s not an event where you’ll get many options for personalization; it’s more about adhering to those rules as best you can. However, be aware of this distinction if you ever see “white tie” noted on an invitation. For most of us, however, a black-tie event will be as formal as it gets. 

How Do You Pick a Tuxedo?

So, now that you know more about black-tie and the use of a tuxedo, which tuxedo style is best? Most of the differentiation between tuxedos comes from three facets:

• The fabric
• The color
• The styling of cuff and lapel

Let’s take a look at these in greater detail.

The Tuxedo Jacket Cuff Styles

When we talk about tuxedo “cuff,” it’s the interplay of your shirt with the edge of the tuxedo jacket sleeve. So, we’ve looked at that in greater detail in the shirt section below. Remember that there is an art to balancing how much shirt cuff shows under your jacket – both too short and too long look gauche. So, why not check out our handy fit guide to make sure you get it right?

Different Types of Tuxedo Lapels

There are three key types of tuxedo lapel you should know about: 

• Shawl collars – This is, by far, the most typical tuxedo lapel. It’s also the least formal and most relaxed. It’s where the lapel is one smooth swathe of satin fabric that appears to “wrap around” the neck and shoulder area.
• Peak lapels – This alternate tuxedo lapel style has two sharp “corners” that point upward, distinctly different from the smooth look of the shawl lapel. If you want the “sharpest” look, peak lapels may be for you, but they bring a lot of detail to the chest and neck region already, so accessorize with that in mind. They also pair beautifully with “slim-fit” looks.
• Notch lapels – It can be difficult to tell this from peak lapels at first glance, but there is a big difference. Notch lapels have the same angularity, but point outward, not upward. This will be a very common design to your eye, as it’s the collar most often used on “normal” suits, so it’s considered an informal and modern choice.

Wondering which tuxedo lapel style you should wear? While there are some other lapel designs used in men’s suits – and technically, anything used on a suit could be used on a tux – these are by far the bulk of styles you will encounter. Sometimes, you will find variations of these looks – things like a piped or “self” trim. However, if you look past the flashy details, you will see the same basic shapes – smooth, peaked up, or peaked outward. If you need a versatile tuxedo or your first buy, then we advise one of these three lapel styles for ease and looks.

Tuxedo Fabrics and Pattern Choice

There are, of course, many different types of tuxedo colors and fabrics open to you. 

Traditionally, men’s tuxedos are made from fine black wool called barathea. It has a “hopsack twill weave,” which is a fancy saying that it has an excellent ribbing and a unique soft luster. It can be made in blends with silk and cotton very quickly, so you will find different softnesses and subtly different looks that are all labeled as barathea.

That’s not to say it’s the only possible fabric for modern tuxedo styles. Technically, anything you can make a suit from, you can use in a tuxedo. The catch is that it needs to be rich and dark, drape elegantly, and (ideally) have an excellent, soft luster that reflects light. Fads come and go, but be aware that fashion fads are just that. Other than velvet, if you’re bold enough for it, or the tropical dinner suit we mentioned up above, it’s wise to stick to the classics for versatility and wearability until you’re so confident with your tuxedo you don’t mind a new piece without much re-wear value.

Traditionally, there’s no actual pattern on a tuxedo, and the colors are dark. This is why the type of cloth used can have an impact. All-wool gives you a matte look, and velvet makes you a black hole that sucks up the light. A blend with silk or mohair introduces subtle sheen, as does the barathea weave – note the “subtle” there. Today, many highly shiny fabrics are immediately associated with cheap polyesters in our minds, so keep the luster toned down. You want to scream “classy,” not “cheap”!

If you do want to opt for a non-wool alternative, shark skin serves remarkably well. Although it’s a synthetic fabric, it brings much of the same understated luster to the table and holds up remarkably well next to traditional barathea.

What Tuxedo Color Should I Choose?

Now that you know more about tuxedo fabric, what about the color?

Ideally, you will choose between the cream and black tropical dinner jacket or a black tuxedo. If you want to make an impression, you can swap the black for midnight blue. Did you know it looks blacker than “real” black under artificial lighting? Thank the Duke of Windsor for that discovery! 

As with the fabric, we’d advise most men to stay conservative here. If you only really need a tuxedo as your go-to wedding suit or to be a groomsman at your friend’s wedding, getting something practical that can be reused as required over the years will suit you best. However, if you have the money and inclination (and black-tie venues), you can be a little more daring.

As you can see, staying with the dark theme but playing a little with color can work very well. This ensemble above looks very good on the brunette model but would pair just as beautifully with a blond- or silver-haired man who might feel that traditional black makes him look washed out. It would equally bring out a very dark skin, too, preventing you from feeling like one monochrome canvas. So, while this is a mid-tone blue rather than a black or navy, it would still bring fantastic versatility to the table. 

Still not keen? We’ve seen impeccable modern tuxedos in a range of muted jewel tones – think burgundy, burnt orange, and sage green – that make a convincing look. It might not be acceptable for the most formal evening events but makes an attractive way to style for a wedding party or semiformal function. If you’re daring enough, a patterned jacket can also be used, although this does tend to create the effect of a dinner jacket instead of the classic men’s tuxedo.

That said, make sure to assess your tuxedo with a critical eye. Young men going to prom can get away with a wide range of colors, and so can many red carpet stars at more avant-garde events like the Met Ball. However, once you’re shopping for an authentic black-tie as a grown man, you want to avoid that kind of air in your tuxedo unless you’re sure it’s right for the venue.

So, while you need to bear in mind the overall theme of dark, elegant, and looking good under artificial light, there is some scope for originality. Make sure to balance it with practicality based on your anticipated use and the accepted standards of the black-tie event you will attend.

What Shirt to Wear with a Tuxedo?

Again, we’re not going to go avant-garde with our tuxedo shirt choices. A formal dress shirt is the name of the game here. Some black-tie events are appropriate for a black shirt, but most men want good old white.

When is a shirt not a shirt, however? If you haven’t had much to do with formal shirts other than wearing one to work, you might be surprised to know just how different a little bit of tailoring can make a shirt.

The classic white evening shirt is made from Marcella, a type of stiff cotton. Under a tuxedo, it should have a formal bib design, no visible placket, and double cuffs. Confused? Don’t be! We have your back.

There’s more to structuring a shirt than just the button-up version you might be familiar with. A “bib” shirt has an extra rectangular section over the chest. It’s often pleated and should be with a tuxedo. It’s a look that just doesn’t fit under a typical suit. A “placket” is used in some men’s semiformal shirt designs to cover the buttons from the eye. Your traditional tuxedo bib shirt, however, doesn’t use one. Instead, you would wear “tuxedo studs.” These are sort of like cufflinks for your chest. They fit into the buttonholes to create a seamless and sophisticated look. They’re an excellent area to invest in for some personality. As for the collar, go with a wingtip. It sits a bow tie nicely and looks good.

What if you want a slightly less formal look or the invite said “black-tie optional”? A “fly-front” shirt has no bib but a placket to cover the buttons that looks similar. You wouldn’t use tuxedo studs with this. 

Talk to Me About Tuxedo Cuffs

As promised, it’s time to get into the cuffs. When your suit is correctly fitted, a portion of your shirt cuff shows under the jacket and is a crucial part of the look. 

We recommended a double cuff, also called a French cuff. This style folds over to hide the seam at the end and is a good choice for any formal function. It’s also the perfect canvas for a fantastic set of cufflinks. As you’ve seen, there’s not a whole lot of room for personality in tuxedo styles, so take the chance to add your touch!

Believe it or not, it doesn’t end there. You get varieties with square, angled, and round corners, and this is more or less a personal choice, although square is the most “correct” historically. 

There are many other types of men’s suit cuffs, but honestly, if you’re attending a black-tie event, go for double cuffs. 

How Do I Accessorize a Tuxedo?

There are several excellent ways you can show your personality through accessorizing your tuxedo. If you’re trying to stay classic, however, don’t do this with color. If you want color in your tux, you should do it through the tailoring, not the accessories. What can you wear with a tuxedo?

Bow Tie

A bow tie is a must if you’re going to a black-tie event. It should typically match your lapel color, so for most of us, that’s black. If you’ve opted for a colored tuxedo, you can cheat a bit and match it to your white shirt instead. It’s OK to toss in a pattern here, as long as the overall theme matches the lapels. Long ties have crept into some less-formal black-tie events. However, you’ll need a different collar type, and it doesn’t always look great with a tuxedo. Why wear something so mundane and office-y when you have a chance to be playful?

Cufflinks and Tuxedo Studs

We looked at these above, but they’re a wonderful touch to add to your tuxedo look, so don’t forget them. If you invest in tuxedo studs, chances are you will get matching cufflinks with them. Otherwise, try to keep these similar in look and feel. Not sure how to wear cufflinks? Try this handy guide. 

Cummerbund or Suspenders

Strictly speaking, if you’re not wearing a vest, it has to be a cummerbund. This is a broad-pleated “sash” worn at the waist, and the pleats should always face upward. A belt doesn’t match the feel of a tuxedo, and no tuxedo pants should even have a belt loop! 

Cummerbands are traditional, fun, and an excellent opportunity to add some color without looking out of place. You can also match them to your bow tie for a fun vibe. However, if you can’t see yourself pulling them off with a straight face, and a waistcoat doesn’t work for you either, then suspenders can fit into more casual black-tie scenarios. Again, match them to your lapels and bow tie.

Pocket Squares

Pocket squares are nearly compulsory with a tuxedo. Traditionally, they’re made of cotton, linen, or silk and should be white, and modern tuxedo styles liven up with some color.

Dress Watch

A proper dress watch is an ideal companion to a tuxedo. Keep it slim and classic for the best look. Steer away from overly sporty brands. 

Boutonnière

Boutonnieres traditionally were a tiny floral arrangement tucked into the lapel of the tuxedo. You would give your date a corsage – a floral arrangement to wear like a bracelet – and have a matching boutonniere tucked in, so you looked like a gorgeous couple. Modern boutonnieres can be more daring than just a flower if you wish, but the same idea is vital. You wouldn’t wear one of these with a pocket square, so pick whichever you feel the most. 

Which Tuxedo Waistcoat Style Should You Wear?

If you’ve opted for a cummerbund or suspenders, then you’ve taken a waistcoat off the table. Otherwise, this is a look screaming for a vest. Don’t listen to advice to not wear anything – you will look unfinished and incomplete. Remember, you don’t even have a belt to add some definition here. A vest gives you a streamlined look, prevents bunching at the top of the trousers, and smooths the effect of the jacket closure on the eye.

Tuxedo vests are “low-stance” vests. This means they don’t cover much of the shirt that’s visible with the jacket buttoned. “High-stance” vests, which do intrude upward of the jacket closure, are more Wall Street or Mad Men than black-tie. That white “V” shirt helps make your shoulders look broad and your waist narrow, so you want to work it. As with suit jackets, you don’t button the bottom button of your vest. 

There’s a few different cuts of vest you can use under a tuxedo, but provided it keeps the low-stance profile, you can choose that based on your tastes. Remember that a tweak here and there to the cut can help you create the illusion of a slimmer figure, too!

What Are Some Good Tuxedo Brands?

There are many solid off-the-peg men’s tuxedo brands out there. Almost every fashion house, for example, offers a black-tie event line. Likewise, every bespoke or made-to-measure service worth its salt will have tuxedo options. So, don’t feel confined by a brand’s name. If you already have an excellent source for suits you trust, going with them to build your tuxedo is a fantastic idea, as they already know your physique well, and you know you like their suits.

The Oliver Wicks made-to-measure team has a few tuxedo specialists among them, so if you’re not sure where to start on your tuxedo journey, feel free to reach out today. We have a wide range of tuxedo designs and styles for a wealth of occasions, so feel free to get inspired in the meantime.