Choosing The Right Size and Shape of Lapel for a Suit
Sometimes, the devil really is in the details. The lapel is only a small part of a suit, but it can make - or break - your overall look. The secret to a great lapel is moderation, balance, and proportion.
If you’re unsure about how to pick the right lapel for your suit, the Oliver Wicks team is here to help.
What Is a Lapel and What Is the Purpose of a Lapel?
The lapel is the fabric at the chest and neckline of your jacket or blazer that folds over onto itself as a key focal point of any suit design. Think of lapels as the “cuff” of a suit’s neckline. Structurally, a lapel is very similar to the collar of your shirt, as it is folded back over the edge of the fabric and sewn in a similar manner. Lapels are typically triangular, although there are different lapel styles to choose from. Different lapel looks can be leveraged to make a statement, as even the smallest tweaks can reinvent a suit’s overall style. There’s a careful balance to be struck in terms of proportions as well, but don’t worry—our expertise is at your service.
What Is the Purpose of the Lapel?
Why do lapels exist in the first place? Do they have any use? It’s true that unlike the cuffs and collar of a shirt, which are designed to take more wear, lapels are designed for aesthetics alone. However, that doesn't mean they’re unimportant!
A jacket without lapels simply doesn't have the same sense of structure and formality of a suit with lapels, so they’re essential on men’s formalwear. Like the difference between pants with pleats and those without, or the different levels of casual you perceive from cuffed slacks vs. a sleek break, the addition of structure can instantly make a look seem more polished. Think of the way that the simple addition of a jacket with lapels is all it takes to elevate a business casual look to something appropriate for a date or formal event.
However, it’s not just about formality. Lapels are actually a key component of the art and sculpture of tailoring, helping create the shape and physique you want through clever design. The vertical lines of the lapels draw the eye, elongating and slimming your torso, while the placement of the lines and angles also accentuates your shoulders.
What is the Buttonhole on the Lapel of a Suit For?
Now that you know the basic function of a lapel, you might be wondering why there’s often a single buttonhole on the left lapel of your suit. Appropriately enough, this is called the lapel buttonhole, or the boutonnière buttonhole. Originally, this top buttonhole had a practical purpose, allowing men to button their jackets all the way to the top on cold days. However, as it became the fashion to keep the top button unbuttoned, this feature became more of a decorative element, remaining even as lapels evolved into the shape we recognize today.
As to why it is called the boutonnière buttonhole, it is so named for the floral decoration added to suits for proms and weddings, which are inserted into and held in place by that convenient buttonhole! That way, your lapel ornamentation sits flat and sleek against your suit. In fact, you’ll often find a little elastic loop below the buttonhole on the inside, allowing you to hold flower stems neatly.
What is a Lapel Pocket?
There’s actually no such thing as a lapel pocket. It’s usually a case of mistaken identity, being used as an incorrect term either for the small “ticket pocket” included at the hip level of some suits, even on formal options like double-breasted suits, or for the loop we mentioned that’s used to hold a boutonnière in place.
A Nice Oliver Wicks Lapel Detail
Canvassing material is added to all of our lapels, to give them a little extra structure. This forms an internal skeleton, creating a nice shape and roll where the lapel folds over. Budget suits will often skip this step, and the lapels can be flat and lifeless as a result. Certainly something just to keep an out for!
What are the Different Types of Lapels?
Now that you understand what a lapel is and what it does, let’s look at some of the classic styles of lapels.
What is a Notch Lapel?
If we ask you to picture a lapel, chances are you’re probably thinking of a notch lapel. It’s the “default” style of suit lapel, and a nice fusion of contemporary and traditional suit aesthetics. Notched lapels are versatile, and will take you from date to interview to boardroom easily. It’s, quite literally, a notched shape, meaning there’s a sharp triangular notch cut into the lapel’s shape. You can personalize a made-to-measure suit with different lapel widths , and right below the notch makes for a perfect location for a lapel pin. You can’t go wrong with a notched lapel, so when in doubt, this is probably your best choice—unless you’re shopping for a tuxedo.
What is a Peak Lapel?
A peak lapel bears some similarity to the notch lapel in that it is an angular, structured lapel with triangular points. But where the angles of a notch lapel point downwards, on a peak lapel they go up towards a “peak,” creating a V shape that frames your face. See the diagram below for an example of notch (left) vs peak (right) lapel shapes.
Alt text: Illustration of two suits showing the difference between a notch lapel and a peak lapel.
Peaked lapels are a more fashion-forward choice than the notch, and you’ll also see them on “fancier” menswear types like tailcoats and morning coats. Because of their stylized look, peaked lapels have also been associated with royalty! Much like a sleek grenadine tie, a matching vest, or a classy pair of french cuffs, a peak lapel can be a nice extra detail which makes your suit stand out from the crowd.
A peak lapel can go anywhere that a notch lapel can, but it adds a little extra pizzazz to your look.
What is a Shawl Lapel?
Like the bow tie, shawl lapels (also known as roll collar lapels) are heavily associated with tuxedo jackets, and there’s a reason you’d never use a shawl lapel for a corporate suit. Unlike the other two classic lapel shapes, shawl lapels aren’t angular, but are instead a rounded, soft swathe of lapel which curves down all the way to the buttons. Shawl lapels also tend to be thinner than other lapel types, and be made in contrasting, shiny evening fabrics.
While you might find some unusual suit designs using a shawl collar, it’s really meant to be more of an out-there fashion statement rather than a staple within your general wardrobe. When combined with all the classic trimmings of a tuxedo look—including suspenders rather than a belt—shawl lapels help emphasize the smooth, sleek lines of your ultra formal attire.
How Wide Should My Lapels Be?
Ah, the biggest debate in men’s suits since wearing brown shoes with colored suits!
A suit can have thin, thick, or average width lapels, and while it might seem like it shouldn’t matter, the width of a lapel is an important aspect of balancing the “finish” of a suit. Wearing the wrong width isn’t necessarily going to register as a faux pas, but something about it may well look subtly wrong. This is similar to the way the length of the sleeves impacts the fit of a jacket. And, you know how we, at Oliver Wicks, are all about “The Fit That Suits You”! Without going into too much formal art theory, what makes for a balanced look to the suit is proper use of the “golden ratio”. That being the case, here’s a quick guide to what are generally considered the “correct” lapel widths based on your chest measurements.
|
SLIM LAPEL |
REGULAR LAPEL |
WIDE LAPEL |
|
Chest size up to 38" |
Chest size 36"-50" |
Chest size 40" plus |
Obviously, there’s some room for personal taste here, but you can’t go wrong with these guidelines. After all, you need to know the rules to break them! Bear this in mind when shopping for standard size suits. While lapels can be changed on a suit, it’s a very fussy alteration, and it’s better to start with a suit that’s well-balanced to the eye. Most of the best suit brands offer a choice of several widths, and your tailor can always make a personal recommendation if you ask!
For guidance, probably 95% of Oliver Wicks customers opt for our regular width lapels.
Does My Tie and Lapel Width Have To Match?
While you’ll see this advice passed around, you don’t have to strictly match your tie width to your lapels. However, the two should be in the same ballpark as one another. Once again, it’s a question of balance, as narrow lapels will look silly with broad ties and vice versa. This shouldn’t present a difficulty as, like lapels, ties are sized with your chest width in mind. And if you’re worried about a thinner tie being underwhelming, remember that you can use your tie knot to create some visual interest instead.
Can I Decorate My Lapel?
Of course you can! The world of men’s accessories is much broader than you may think. For suits especially, your choices are pretty broad. Of course, a boutonnière is always very fetching, but another classic choice of lapel decoration is a lapel pin.
What is a Lapel Pin?
A lapel pin is quite literally a pin with a decorative head that’s affixed to the lapel as an extra bit of decoration and aesthetic interest.
What is a Lapel Pin Used For?
Unlike a tie bar or cufflinks, it’s a purely non-functional addition, there to make you feel great and add a personal touch to your suit. Dress codes are unlikely to require a lapel pin, so they’re purely there for you to have fun with. Of course, you should consider the event you’re attending—no one would wear a bold flower to a funeral, for example—but if you’re looking to jazz up a plain suit for a special event, a lapel pin is a great way to let your personality shine through.
What Side is a Lapel Pin Worn On?
The standard way to wear lapel pins is on the left side, using the lapel buttonhole to prevent damaging or leaving a mark on the fabric of the lapel. This has the added advantage of making the choice of where exactly to place the lapel pin a breeze.
What is the Standard Size of a Lapel Pin?
There’s no real standard size for a lapel pin. Again, it’s about visual balance, so a broader-chested man might want to use a broader size than a short or narrow-chested man. You will also want to consider the occasion. For a fashion event, go for whatever you want. For a work function where you may not want to stand out too much, stick with sleek and elegant. Just make sure your lapel pin doesn’t look overly small for the lapel, as that will throw off the balance of the suit and look visually odd.
While a lapel pin is your best bet for day-to-day lapel decoration, a boutonnière may be more appropriate for proms, dances, and weddings. And while typically you’d choose between wearing a pocket square or a pin, it’s not impossible to convincingly pull off both at the same time!
How Do I Maintain Lapels?
As with shirt cuffs and collars, you should give your jacket lapels some extra love to keep them looking great as they tend to take heavier wear than other parts of the suit. Address stains as soon as you notice them, and remember that most high-end suits will need to be dry cleaned, so check the directions on the label before taking any action. The care tag is there to help you make the best possible decision.
One common issue with lapels is wrinkling. Because of the layering and folds, this can become a long-term issue if not maintained. When putting your suit jacket away, always use a high-quality padded hanger to make sure it hangs naturally. You can also steam or carefully iron (over a cloth!) the lapels to keep them flat and pristine. We’d recommend opting for the garment steamer whenever possible, as it will be less harsh on the longevity of the fabric… or better yet, let a professional dry cleaner take care of it… it’s just one less thing to worry about, and for only a couple of bucks.
Lastly, make sure to only use high-quality lapel pins that are sharp and won’t rip or damage the surface of the fabric. Extensive thread pulling on a suit is hard to address, so make sure every pin you use goes in cleanly and let the buttonhole help you make the most of the look without unnecessary wear and tear.
Conclusion
And there you have it! You now have all the knowledge necessary to choose the perfect lapels for your suits, match their width to your body, and even add some personal touches for a fresher, more interesting look. With these top tips from the Oliver Wicks team, you’ll soon be dressed to impress—lapel pin included!
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