Bringing Back the Double-Breasted Suit: Why Two is Better than One
Menswear has entered a fashion renaissance, with smart menswear and classic styles making a huge comeback. While there’s plenty of new and trendy offerings to thrill the more fashion-forward, we’ve also seen timeless staples surge back to prominence that any man can wear with confidence. If you’ve ever worried that exploring the world of men’s suits classics will come off as stuffy and old-fashioned, think again. Modern menswear innovations have reinvented these iconic styles – like the double-breasted suit – for a modern age, leaving you suave, sophisticated, and in control.
Perfect for snappy dressers, whether worn as part of a suit jacket or the primary cut on a blazer, the double-breasted look is back. We’ve enlisted the help of experts at Oliver Wicks to brief you on everything you need to know, from where it comes from to how to wear it with flair. Let’s get started.
What Is a Double-Breasted Suit?
What is a double-breasted suit, anyway? If you’re a little bit of a “suit novice,” you probably have never thought too hard about your suit jackets. However, there are different cuts and styles you can enjoy. Graduating to the level where you can identify jacket cuts at a glance is an exciting milestone for many men who find exploring the vast fashion world of suits enjoyable. To top it all off, the double-breasted is a classic everyone should know. That’s why we’re here to help! We encourage you to have fun and explore.
The men’s double-breasted suit adds a more structured look to your wardrobe, giving you a proud and slightly formal yet excitingly dapper vibe you can transition pretty easily to many events and situations. It’s quite a contrast to the trends of the 1990s and 2000s, which saw looser silhouettes invade men’s fashion, even for formal suits. While there’s a lot to love about a relaxed cut, they do little to enhance your natural physique or showcase it to its best. If you have some worries about posture or a developing beer belly, a relaxed fit can be the worst choice for you. Far from hiding what you’d instead not enhance, it can make you look (and feel) doughy and uncomfortable.
It’s kind enough to bring some fashion trickery to the table, too. Firstly, it’s an excellent choice for improving your posture. Say bye-bye to tech neck! On the other hand, a double-breasted jacket gives you a figure-hugging contour and a sweep of fabric across the chest that cuts an immediate and unmistakable silhouette. While it can be an excellent way to focus attention on a great set of shoulders or sculpted chest, it’s also a great choice to create the illusion of a longer, leaner torso than nature may have given you.
Contrary to dated advice you may see, this leaves it very accessible to a broad range of body shapes. The only male body type not suited to the double-breasted style is a man with wide hips, who may feel a little boxy. With good tailoring, everyone else can enjoy the style. If you have worries in the height department, it can also help elevate the eyeline up, making you look and feel taller. Plus, the more formal styling is guaranteed to put you at the center of attention when used right.
It’s a dressy style, for sure, so don’t expect to wear this one to lounge around or play a round of golf. Yet, that same dressy feel is fantastic to harness for a romantic date, kicker first impression, crucial social gathering, or even a sophisticated double-breasted wedding party. It’s also a different head-turning style, yet not different enough to stick out in the wrong way. It gives you a way to make a powerful statement wherever you go. Depending on your style and industry, it can even be used successfully in some business areas, although it’s not the best choice of suit for the boardroom.
The Double-Breasted vs. Single-Breasted Suit
What does double-breasted mean? If you imagine the quintessential suit jacket, it fastens with either two or three buttons at the center of your chest, and the fabric on one side does not overlap with the other. Of course, one of men’s fashion’s big debates is whether or not you should close those buttons, especially in business! If you’re newer to the suit world, however, let’s not get ahead of ourselves. You’ve probably already seen terminologies like double- vs. single-breasted suits littering men’s style journals and suit makers’ websites. So, if you ever wondered, “What is a single-breasted suit?” then there’s your answer! It’s the “standard-edition” men’s suit jacket.
So, what is a double-breasted jacket, then? Instead of closing equally at the center of the chest, it wraps further around, fastening off-center with some fabric overlapping. This creates the illusion of one lapel being longer than the other, although they are symmetrical in reality. It also showcases a ton more buttons, attractively arranged to draw the eye. That’s the commanding feature you’ll notice on double-breasted blazers.
If you’re already pretty confident in the world of men’s fashion, you’ll know it doesn’t stop there. There are some more subtle differences, including how the fabric is cut and the design and arrangement at the lapel and pockets. This can always be tinkered with to suit your taste and personality, but a lot can be said for a more traditional, double-breasted coat look.
Are you still feeling a little lost? Think of your favorite Victorian dramas. While both single-coated and double-coated men’s jackets can be found in the period, the iconic look of Dickens’ heroes is the double-breasted frock coat – a more extended, outerwear version of the suit jacket. You’ll also find it liberally used in the British Navy. Likewise, the British Royal Family has leveraged the eye-catching yet subtle, double-breasted look to great success over the years. The term “reefer jacket,” sometimes used for the style, stems from this nautical influence. It has also become the go-to shorthand in film for Mafia bosses, investment bankers, and brazen Wall Street day traders and can be found in a lot of retro 1930s and 1940s styling.
Don’t worry! Modern versions of the look won’t make you look like you stepped out of the pages of a dime novel. They are, however, a great example of the slim, wrap fit and button arrangement that makes the double-breasted suit so iconic. This slightly militaristic overtone can be leveraged very nicely when styling yourself, as it provides a clean line for the eye. The asymmetrical wrap of the best double-breasted suits also helps encourage you to stand tall (and camouflages any bulge you may be worried about in a single-breasted jacket).
The Oliver Wicks team is proud to offer you made-to-measure menswear that suits your every need. So we make sure you can choose a double-breasted jacket cut on all of our custom-made suits, including our spectacularly formal tuxedos and tailcoats. You’ll never have to sacrifice your sense of style to find a great-looking suit.
How to Wear a Double-Breasted Suit
If you’re looking to leverage a little of the power and menace of a skilled Mafia boss for your wardrobe, what do you need to know to get it right? Now that you know the difference between single-breasted and double-breasted suits, let’s dive a little deeper into how to wear a double-breasted suit and single-breasted looks you’re more familiar with.
Now is probably a good time to mention that the double-breasted suit is straightforward to wear for men who move a lot, even if you’re just a habitual fidgeter. If you’re active day to day but still want to embrace the power-suit look, opting for a slim-fit double-breasted suit could send your wardrobe into the stratosphere. It can even leave you more comfortable day to day at the same time. Win-win, right?
With that out the way, what secrets do you need to know to wear your double-breasted suit ideally?
1. Tweak the Fit
We cannot emphasize this enough. By far, most of the issues men who are unused to wearing suits have come down to a poor fit, not a style mismatch or a problem with your build. That’s why Oliver Wicks makes sure you can have a tailor of your choice alter any aspect of the fit (for free) with our made-to-measure promise.
All the talk of “slim fit” and “wraparound” may have scared you off if you haven’t been hitting the gym regularly. Don’t worry! You don’t have to have the physique of an international spy to look every bit as suave in a double-breasted suit. Tailoring will, however, be critical.
The more robust you are in your midsection, the more critical that your double-breasted suit fits well. The idea is to use the snug fit at the hip and long lines at the shoulder to recreate your silhouette better. If you’re packing a little extra punch in the midsection, the secret isn’t trying to hide it under layers of fabric. It’s making sure an expert cuts the suit to fit you immaculately. We guarantee you’ll be stunned by the difference.
2. Go Wide If You’re Unsure
If you’re both fashion-forward and confident, feel free to experiment to your heart’s content! You’ll see double-breasted suits for men who play with the look of the lapels and pockets. Suppose you’re newer to double-breasted suits, however, or like to keep it simple. In that case, the traditional wide “peaked” lapel perfectly matches the double-breasted silhouette, helping to shape broader shoulders and a better overall look.
Patched pockets (where the pocket appears to have been added after the suit was completed) don’t typically pair well with this lapel style. However, the double-breasted cut is a rare exception to that rule. More commonly, you’ll even see flap pockets.
3. Don’t Go Overboard
This is already a flashy cut of the jacket, and it’s so unusual in modern suits that it qualifies as a statement in itself. Now’s not the time to go overboard with other embellishments, and you’ll probably want to stick to more classic colors, too. A black double-breasted suit offers timeless elegance, so there’s no need to go wild. Keep patterns muted and simple, or explore the excitement of a dashing single color.
There’s one exception to this rule. You can get a little flashy with your pants. Flat-front trousers are slimming, but the tighter cut of the double-breasted suit has room to allow for pleats, a gathered waist, or a cuffed pant leg for extra interest, especially in more casual renditions.
4. Get Your Buttons Right
Remember the button debate we mentioned? In a double-breasted suit, you button the top set (inside and out) of buttons if it’s a four-button style and the waist set with any other. You never button the bottom or top buttons otherwise!
Talking about button design, the six-piece, most correctly known as a 6 x 2 or “six-on-two” configuration, is by far the most timeless and probably the best choice for most men’s wardrobes. This means you have six buttons, two of which are intended to close. The aforementioned four-button configuration may be four-on-two, or four-on-one, referring to the overall number of buttons and the number to close. The 4 x 1 is a niche style popularized in the early 1900s by the Duke of Kent.
However, that’s a little more stylistic, so go with your gut on what looks best for you. No matter what you do, however, don’t open that jacket up! The double-breasted suit is designed to create a specific silhouette, and having both sides flapping looks unkempt and gauche. Even a double-breasted suit with a vest underneath is not meant to be unbuttoned if you’d rather be able to open your jacket during the day, especially while standing, opt for a single-breasted design.
5. Go Big
The rest is all on you, friend! The double-breasted suit is big, bold, and you’re going to need to come to the party. This isn’t a suit that should find you hunched in a corner wanting to go home. This is a suit you need to wear with pride, so strut your best “alpha-male” vibe and get to it!
When to Wear a Double-Breasted Suit
Now that you know more about how to wear your double-breasted suit, let’s take a peek at when to do so. From a practical point of view, you’re going to want to save this look for when it’s a little cool outside. While there are some fantastic summer fabric options for men’s suits, even they can’t do much with the sheer amount of fabric (and overlap) needed for a double-breasted look. So keep this one for cooler climates or making a fall or winter statement.
The key feature of a double-breasted suit is that you will get noticed. So it’s not an ideal choice for a friend’s wedding, where you’re near-guaranteed to upstage the groom. Nobody wants to be that guy. However, it’s a fantastic option for the wedding party itself. Thus, if you’re a groom-to-be and it’s a cold-weather wedding, this style should be on your shortlist.
As a rule of thumb, the bigger the function, the better this suit will go over. It’s also a good idea to start small. You probably won’t want to jump straight from your ratty jeans and tee to a double-breasted suit. While we don’t want to discourage anyone from taking those first steps to a new wardrobe, we’d advise experimenting with a sports coat or two. A relaxed single-breasted blazer might do before going straight to the double-breasted look. That’s if you’re a little shy about wearing something that’s not mainstream, of course!
If you’re already well-seasoned in fashion repartee and ready to shine, or you’re simply confident about adopting it as a new look, there’s almost no venue this style won’t fit into. Anywhere you want to create a flashy entrance or style statement, the double-breasted suit can go.
A double-breasted blazer can also adapt surprisingly well to casual pants, chinos, and even sneakers. While it’s not a great choice as a sports coat, you can even get away with a well-styled pair of nautical shorts if you like to get adventurous with your fashion choices. Don’t feel the need to keep this style in the cupboard just for formal functions.
It boils down to your comfort and how adventurous you’re willing to get with your style choices. A double-breasted suit is a statement suit, so it has less versatility than your standard suit and won’t be a go-to for “standard” functions like weddings and funerals. It’s a suit to be worn for its own sake, not social convention. For a man who’s already deep into styling his suits with money clips, sunglasses, hats, and other style apparel, the double-breasted suit can open up an entirely new world of fashion opportunities.
If you’re a man who’s never really owned a suit but finds he prefers the look of a militaristic or romantic jacket rather than a standard cut, go ahead. You and your new double-breasted suit may need to get used to the attention you attract, but you’ll soon come to love the personal flair it brings to your wardrobe. We’ve found that younger men who enjoy the look of the Gothic and steampunk subcultures can also have a lot of fun with this style. It also makes a great way to transition iconic looks to a more mainstream elegance without losing your style.
Fabrics and Patterns Popular with Double-Breasted Suits
As we’ve already mentioned, a double-breasted jacket isn’t an excellent match for loud and bright colors or patterns. The cut alone speaks for itself, and it’s easy to go overboard. This gives you an unparalleled chance to reinvent the look of classic colors with a blue, black, navy, charcoal, or gray double-breasted suit in a crisp, clean fabric. Fashion risk-takers can try out a jewel-toned dye for style, but it will be pretty loud, so choose your audience carefully.
The double-breasted suit is a surprisingly good vehicle for a country tweed. If you are a fan of a muted pinstripe or chalk stripe pattern, it makes for a brilliant way to break up the color without going too far. If you’re hoping your suit will help you create a leaner or taller silhouette, pinstripe could be your secret weapon to an even better look. Herringbone is a little bold and will need careful balance but can also contribute to a slimming silhouette. For once, the vibe is less “musty professor” and more “Jane Austen hero.”
The most traditional fabric is full wool, as with most suits. If you opt for a suit with high-quality wool, you can leave out the lining and let it drape with the heavier fabric for a slightly different effect.
While there are some double-breasted suits made with linen or lighter fabrics for your comfortable wear, bear in mind that the construction of a double-breasted suit will always be pretty heavy. It’s also not ideal for hot weather.
Accessorizing Your Double-Breasted Suit
Now comes the fun bit! How do you make your double-breasted suit your own?
A style so geared around buttons means they are a crucial part of your overall look. Make sure you give some careful thought to the statement you want to make with them. If you’re wearing jewelry or cufflinks with your look (as you should), keep any metallic button decor in a matching color spectrum to keep it classy. The same goes for matching leathers to your belt and shoes. Mostly, you will want to create a contrast, but for a sleeker look, you can tone the buttons to match the suit.
A double-breasted suit is a fantastic vehicle to showcase fancy cuffs, especially French cuffs. Thus, don’t be afraid to try them out. A crisp and classy white shirt makes a classically gorgeous pair with this jacket style.
Finishing the Look
Unless you’re going ultra-casual, which is a newer and more “out-there” look for the double-breasted jacket, you’ll want to consider a tie or pocket square to finish the visual for your suit. While both work, we prefer the subtle color pop of a pocket square, but it’s up to you. If you do opt for a tie, remember that the entire construction of the suit is throwing attention at your neck, so go with something bright and bold, or try a fancier knot to show off. A wider tie is a better idea, too, and your skinny ties need to stay in the drawer for this one. If you’re in the mood for a romantic finish, you can throw on an Ascot tie or even a cravat for extra style points. However, it’s going to be an attention puller, so make sure you’re up for it.
Come wintertime, your double-breasted suit will pair spectacularly with a soft cashmere or wool jersey. If you’re not going for a shirt, throw on a polo neck for the utmost in country casual. If you’re keen to take your double-breasted suit jacket into the casual arena, you can throw a standard t-shirt under it in warmer weather. However, it will need a certain fashionable flair to start breaching the “fashion rulebook” there.
Make sure it’s crisp, styled, and clean. Don’t use a ratty old favorite. Crew neck is the best choice. If you’re in the mood, dark jeans do make a stylish pairing. Just avoid matching your jacket to your denim, as you may look like you have grabbed the wrong pants rather than making a conscious fashion statement!
Head-to-Toe Style
Now is the time for the absolute superstar – the gentleman’s hat. Hats have had a renaissance of their own in men’s fashion, having been well off the menu for decades previously. Likewise, few jackets look as good with a hat as the double-breasted coat. So this is a spectacular addition to your overall look. However, it is one you will need to wear with confidence. You won’t get away with being a wallflower with a hat and double-breasted jacket – that’s for sure!
The fedora, or trilby, the iconic hat of the 1940s, was practically made for the double-breasted look. Regrettably, it’s become something of a stereotype shorthand for a very unappealing type of behavior in recent years, so you may want to approach this one with caution, especially as a younger man. The look, however, is gloriously retro on the right man. A flat cap or Panama hat can also work well, and each creates a different mood for your suit.
When it comes to shoes, the classic leather Oxford shoe, matched to the tone of your outfit and coordinated with your belt, can’t be beaten. For more casual looks, however, a crisp pair of sneakers will do fine. As with the t-shirt earlier, however, make sure they are in excellent condition and impeccably clean. If you’d rather not worry about your kicks all day, opt for a leather loafer instead.
Loving the Double-Breasted Look
The double-breasted suit can open up a whole new world to enjoy for fashion-forward men. It can even be a statement piece in a sophisticated wardrobe for those moments you want to bring a little extra shine to an event. It’s a style that catches the eye quickly. It is near impossible to miss, so you will want to pick your stage accordingly and balance it with your personality.
This is a suit to throw on when you want to channel your inner alpha and aren’t afraid to carry a mix of mystery, style, and power into an event. There’s nothing humble or understated about a double-breasted jacket. Thus, avoid it in arenas where you don’t want to show up as a key figure. However, that same powerful statement can also be well-harnessed for your benefit.
There’s only one key thing to remember with double-breasted suits. Make sure your final look is one you can wear, rather than letting the suit “wear you.” This is the choice of bankers, businessmen, vintage crime lords, and kingpins of their industry. Thus, don’t be afraid to strut a little, and enjoy the attention it brings you.
While the double-breasted suit isn’t the most uncomplicated style to master, it can be gratifying. Keen to try one for yourself? Remember that you can request any Oliver Wicks suit in a double-breasted look. Don’t be afraid to find yourself a new favorite today!